The K!

I'm going to try my best to lay out everything that was involved to get my k24a2 up and running in my s13. If you happen to notice any missing info, let me know!

The engine: I sourced my K24a2 from a 2005 Acura TSX. Any 2004 to 2008 will work. You get a little 8HP bump in power with the '06+ version.

Part list:

1. TF Works Oil Pan and Oil Pump Adapter - Requires you to remove the factory oil pump, balance shafts, oil pump, and you have to block off an oil passage.

2. OEM Type S Oil Pump - This must be trimmed for clearance and will bolt up to the TF Oil Pump Adapter.

3. OEM Oil Baffle Tray - This also must be trimmed to clear the oil pan and pump.

4. I didn't do this, but I'd highly recommend adding an ATI Super Damper - removing the balance shafts for the rwd pan means the engine has a ton more vibrations (they're the worst at 1k to 1.8k RPM on mine).

5. OEM 50º VTC Gear - Might as well wile it's apart.

6. Skunk2 Magnesium Valve Cover - Nice for extra hood clearance and the AN ports, but definitely not required. Note: My dipstick kept popping out (others have had the same issue) so I ended up making a bracket off the header and using an expansion spring to hold it in place.

7. I ended up running an electric power steering pump and no AC, so I opted for the Kpower Idler/Tensioner Pulley Delete, which simplifies belt routing a ton, but also isn't required. The only thing is it's a pain in the ass to install when the belt is brand new. Pushing the belt over the water pump while someone spins the crank is the best way to install the belt without risking stripping the block. Note: The pulley bolt ended up loosening on my motor and stripped the hole, so I wound up going with an EP3 idler pulley and stock belt auto-tensioner.

8. Catch Can - There's a lot of debate about what the K prefers, but I ended up going back of VC to CC to intake tube before the throttle body and so far it's been good. I'd also like to note that the PCV was routed to a bung on the bottom of the intake manifold, not the catch can.

9. I also went to Kpower for their Intake Manifold, IACV Blockoff Plate, and Throtle Body, which required a smidge of dremmiling to accommodate the throttle cable. Note: The Kpower throttle body kept sticking due to the butter fly sliding back and forth and was the likely cause for my TPS failing. I wound up switching to a Skunk2 B-series throttle body and oem B-series TPS, which has been problem free since.

10. OEM Intake Manifold Gasket - Always a safe bet.

11. I got a Universal Cut-to-fit Throttle Cable from Control Cables Inc., which slipped right into the factory throttle cable bracket at the firewall after removing the factory one. I ended up trimming it to about 16" iirc.

12. Acuity Hall Effect K Series TPS - Seems to be the go-to since the factory k series unit is prone to failure. This required the B-series throttle body adapter to work with the Kpower throttle body. Note: I wound up switching to a B-series throttle body and TPS.

13. OEM TSX MAP Sensor - Boosted applications may want a Skunk2 4bar MAP instead.

14. Radium K Series Fuel Rail - Along with the recommended fuel pulse damper, direct mount FPR, and ORB fittings. I just did what they recommended. Simple!

15. OEM TSX Injectors - I just used the ones that came with the motor and sent them out to RC Fuel Injection, who have an insanely quick turnaround time I might add, for a clean and rebuild. You'll want to note the year of the injectors though because there are two harness connector types.

16. TF's Kswap Radiator Kit - I re-pinned the SPAL fan connectors and used Keyed Performance's Efan Controller Kit for a nice clean setup.

17. TracTuff's Thermostat Hose Barb Port Adapter - For the heater return.

18. Upper Coolant Neck - With the 1/2" bung for heat and 1/8" port going to my swirl pot.

19. Swivel Thermostat Housing - With another 1/8" port going to the swirl pot.

20. Swirl Pot - Mine is a discontinued PBM one, but I'm sure any universal unit will work just fine. I highly recommend running one because K's cooling system can be tricky to bleed, especially when when longitudinally mounted. Plumbing: Bottom barb goes to the thermostat housing, second up goes to the upper coolant neck, third up goes to the radiator (which has a gutted rad cap), and the top barb goes to the coolant reservoir.

21. Coolant Reservoir - Because it matches the aesthetic.

22. Kswap Radiator Hoses

23. Highrise Header - It really just looks cool as hell.

24. Wiring Specialties s13 Kswap Harness

25. Hondata Kpro ECU - Definitely the cheap/easiest way to go. You'll need to source a used ECU to send out. You can usually find them for around $200 cheaply on eBay.

And just like that you've got a K-swapped s13 with hardly any blood, sweat, tears, bankruptcy, morally questionable decisions, diamond heists, or 9/11's!