The K!

I'm going to try my best to lay out everything that was involved to get my k24a2 up and running in my s13. If you happen to notice any missing info, let me know!

The engine: I sourced my K24a2 from a 2005 Acura TSX. Any 2004 to 2008 will work. You get a little 8HP bump in power with the '06+ version.

Part list:

1. TF Works Oil Pan and Oil Pump Adapter - Requires you to remove the factory oil pump, balance shafts, oil pump, and you have to block off an oil passage.

2. OEM Type S Oil Pump - This must be trimmed for clearance and will bolt up to the TF Oil Pump Adapter.

3. OEM Oil Baffle Tray - This also must be trimmed to clear the oil pan and pump (iirc).

4. I didn't do this, but I'd highly recomend adding an ATI Super Damper - removing the balance shafts for the rwd pan meand the engine has a ton more vibrations (they're the worst at 1k to 1.8k RPM on mine).

5. OEM 50º VTC Gear - Might as well wile it's apart.

6. Skunk2 Magnesium Valve Cover - Nice for extra hood clearance and the AN ports, but definitely not required.

7. I ended up running an electric power steering pump and no AC, so I opted for the Kpower Idler/Tensioner Pulley Delete, which simplifies belt routing a ton, but also isn't required. The only thing is it's a pain in the ass to install when the belt is brand new.

8. Catch Can - There's a lot of debate about what the K prefers, but I ended up going back of VC to CC to intake tube before the trotle body and so far it's been good. I'd also like to note that the PCV was routed to a bung on the bottom of the intake manifold, not the catch can.

9. I also went to Kpower for their Intake Manifold, IACV Blockoff Plate, and Throtle Body, which requried a smidge of dremmiling to accomodate the throttle cable.

10. OEM Intake Manifold Gasket - Always a safe bet.

11. I got a Universal Cut-to-fit Throttle Cable from Control Cables Inc., which slipped right into the factory throttle cable bracket at the firewall after removing the factory one. I ended up trimming it to about 16" iirc.

12. Acuity Hall Effect K Series TPS - Seems to be the go-to since the factory k series unit is prone to failure. This requred the B-series throtle body adapter to work with the Kpower throttle body.

13. OEM TSX MAP Sensor - Boosted applications may want a Skunk2 4bar MAP instead.

14. Radium K Series Fuel Rail - Along with the recomended fuel pulse damper, direct mount FPR, and ORB fittings. I just did what they recomended. Simple!

15. OEM TSX Injectors - I just used the ones that came with the motor and sent them out to RC Fuel Injection, who have an insanely quick turnaround time I might add, for a clean and rebuild. You'll want to note the year of the injectors though because there are two harness connector types.

16. TF's Kswap Radiator Kit - I repinned the SPAL fan connectors and used Keyed Performance's Efan Controller Kit for a nice clean setup.

17. TracTuff's Thermostat Hose Barb Port Adapter - For the heater return.

18. Upper Coolant Neck - With the 1/2" bung for heat and 1/8" port going to my swirl pot.

19. Swivel Thermostat Housing - With another 1/8" port going to the swirl pot.

20. Swirl Pot - Mine is a discontinued PBM one, but I'm sure any universal unit will work just fine. I higly recomend running one because K's cooling system can be tricky to bleed, especially when when longitudinally mounted.

21. Coolant Reservoir - Because it matches the aesthetic.

22. Kswap Radiator Hoses

23. Highrise Header - It really just looks cool as hell.

24. Wiring Specialties s13 Kswap Harness

25. Hondata Kpro ECU - Definitely the ceap/easiest way to go. You'll need to source a used ECU to send out. You can usually find them for around $200 cheaply on eBay.

And just like that you've got a K-swapped s13 with hardly any blood, sweat, tears, bankruptcy, morally questionable decisions, diamond heists, or 9/11's!